The intricate patterns of Kashmir’s traditional handwoven carpets and rugs have long been guided by an ancient symbolic code known as talim. This centuries-old system has been essential for designing carpets and conveying detailed weaving instructions to artisans.
For generations, weavers like Mohammad Rafiq Sofi have relied on talim to craft their masterpieces. Starting at the age of eight, Mr. Sofi followed in his father’s footsteps, learning the complex art of carpet weaving. “It took me five years to learn how to weave properly,” says Mr. Sofi, now 57, reflecting on his decades of experience.
When he first started, the process of completing a single carpet could take over six months. Designers would sketch out the carpet patterns, and a talim expert would encode these designs into symbolic instructions. These codes were then sent in small sections to weavers like Mr. Sofi, showing them exactly where to knot each thread and which colors to use. Since each section only covered a small portion of the carpet, hundreds of codes would be required to complete the full design, with constant communication between designers and weavers. This often led to difficulties in identifying and correcting mistakes.
Today, much has changed. Thanks to advancements in technology, computer software now plays a crucial role in streamlining the design process. Mr. Sofi can now complete a carpet in just six weeks, a fraction of the time it once took. While the weaving and knotting are still done by hand, the software now manages the design and talim code generation. Instead of working from small, piecemeal sections, weavers can now view the entire design at once, making it easier to spot potential errors early on and reducing the time spent correcting them.
“This innovation in handmade carpets is not to disrupt the essence of artistic carpets,” explains Mehmood Shah, director of Handloom & Handicrafts for the government of Jammu and Kashmir. “It’s just to speed up the process, with designs now available at a much faster pace.”
The most recent development in this ancient craft comes from technology firms applying artificial intelligence to further enhance the process. Aby Mathew, chief operating officer at International Virtual Assistance, a software company specializing in data analysis, is among those leading the way in integrating AI into carpet weaving. This blending of tradition and modern technology is helping preserve the heritage of handwoven carpets while making the production process more efficient than ever before.
His company is currently training an artificial intelligence (AI) system to interpret the talim code by analyzing images of carpets alongside corresponding lines of talim code. While the AI is still in development and will continue to require human input for writing the code, Aby Mathew believes it will eventually accelerate the carpet-making process by decoding talim instructions for weavers.
“Weavers will be able to experiment with new patterns, update traditional designs to suit modern tastes, and produce unique, custom carpets,” says Mr. Mathew. As India’s economy grows, he foresees an increasing demand for carpets that the traditional industry might struggle to meet.
“The preferences of customers are evolving, with a growing desire for carpets that are stylish, durable, and low-maintenance. Traditional carpet-making methods are often slow and labor-intensive, and may not be able to keep up with these demands,” he explains.
Aditya Gupta, founder of Rug Republic, which he started 32 years ago, echoes the need for innovation. His company now employs around 5,000 people and produces up to 15,000 rugs each month. Gupta notes that the Indian rug and carpet industry faces stiff competition from Turkey and China, and must stay ahead by embracing the latest manufacturing techniques.
“Innovation is vital in every industry—without it, we die,” he states. “The Indian carpet industry is unique in that it isn’t just about moving forward with new technology, but rather integrating both the old and the new. The focus now is on creating designs that can’t be replicated by machines while maintaining traditional techniques.”
At Rug Republic, new technologies have been introduced for designing, washing, drying, and monitoring moisture levels in carpets. The company has also begun experimenting with unconventional materials like recycled denim, cotton, and leather, in addition to traditional wool. Despite these advancements, Gupta still holds a deep appreciation for traditional methods.
“The production side of things must remain traditional and handmade—that’s the true appeal for consumers,” he emphasizes.
The industry has also been bolstered by an official tagging system that authenticates genuine hand-knotted Kashmiri carpets. By scanning a QR code, buyers can verify the carpet’s designer and details about its creation process.
“If the Handicrafts Department hadn’t taken this step, this trade in handwoven carpets might have disappeared in a few years,” says carpet designer Shahnawaz Ahmad.
Such innovations are crucial for sustaining the local economy, where approximately 50,000 workers in Jammu and Kashmir are employed in the production of rugs and carpets valued at around £36 million ($28 million) annually.
For long-time weavers like Feroz Ahmad Bhat, who has been in the industry for 30 years, the new developments offer renewed hope. “In my early days, we earned well and many people were involved in this work. Then came a period when wages dropped, and the industry slowed down. But now, with the introduction of new designs, the work has gained momentum again. It’s flourishing once more,” says Bhat.
