When thinking of Kashmir, its breathtaking scenery often comes to mind alongside its renowned crafts, including carpets, shawls, scarves, and sweaters. The Kashmiri carpet industry stands as a significant part of the region’s heritage and a source of pride for India. This article endeavors to explore the past and present of this esteemed industry.
Originating from Persia, the Kashmiri carpet industry initially drew inspiration from Persian motifs. However, artisans in Kashmir began infusing their carpets with specialized touches during the 16th and 17th centuries, giving them a unique identity.
While carpet manufacturing units are spread across various Indian cities, including Amritsar, Agra, Jaipur, Eluru, and Warangal, the Kashmiri carpet industry has evolved into a specialized sector, offering livelihoods to many in the region. Alongside its natural beauty and the textile industry, Kashmir is celebrated for its distinctive carpets.
Kashmiri carpets have gained global admiration for their intricate designs and durability. Beyond their traditional use as floor coverings, these carpets also serve as wall hangings or bedding.
The art of carpet weaving in Kashmir has been handed down through generations, with most weavers still preferring traditional hand-weaving techniques over mechanized processes. Certain carpets, featuring intricate designs, can take years to produce.
Traditionally crafted from silk or wool, Kashmiri carpets may also incorporate a blend of both materials or mercerized cotton. The base of these carpets is typically cotton or silk.
Due to the high-quality materials and intricate production processes involved, Kashmiri carpets tend to be more expensive, ranging from Rs. 500 to Rs. 50,000, depending on design and materials used. The incorporation of mercerized cotton by artisans aims to make these carpets more accessible while still maintaining their unique appeal as investment pieces.
Common motifs found on Kashmiri carpets include the “tree of life,” flowers, trees, and other natural elements inspired by the region’s beauty.
The production process for Kashmiri carpets is meticulous, involving various stages such as silk or wool cultivation, treatment, dyeing, pattern selection, weaving, and finishing touches. The designer of the carpet is known as the “Nakaash” in Kashmir, while the weaver and dyer are referred to as “Kalimba” and “Ranger,” respectively.
Regrettably, the once vibrant Kashmiri carpet industry is dwindling. Artisans, whose families have crafted carpets for generations, are abandoning the trade due to its diminishing profitability. Nearly 90% of the domestic demand for carpets is now met by units in Amritsar, Rajasthan, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, and Andhra Pradesh. Additionally, the export of Kashmiri garments has declined over the years. Statistics show a significant drop in carpet exports, from 400 quintals in 1973-74 to 650 quintals in 1999-2000, despite a peak of 5750 quintals in 1995-96. The primary export markets for these carpets include the USA, Germany, UK, Australia, and Canada.
Several factors contribute to the stagnation of the Kashmir carpet industry, including limited financial resources, outdated technology, the proliferation of counterfeit Kashmiri carpets, insufficient training, and a lack of innovation. To rejuvenate the sector, artisans are experimenting with various fabrics and designs, seeking to inject new vitality into the trade.
Some artisans have embraced modern technology, utilizing computers for design preparation. The Indian Institute of Carpet Technology (IICT) has developed the Naqash software, facilitating the swift and easy development of designs. Additionally, IICT has established a carpet designing studio, blending modern techniques with traditional carpet design.
However, the efforts to protect the industry remain limited in scope. Urgent and effective measures are necessary to preserve this exquisite art form and restore the industry to its rightful prominence.
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